Morning in Gjakova

We arrived in Gjakova, Kosovo about 8:30 am, parked and walked through the bazaar.  A bazaar is usually in the old center of a town in Kosovo.  The shops were just opening up.  Some people were enjoying their morning coffee at the cafes.  The hanging red lanterns are lit each night.  It was a quiet morning, but a pretty one!

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Gjakova's Bazaar

While modern clothing popular is popular in Kosovo today as it is in the West, the traditional clothing of Kosovo can be still be seen and is available in the bazaars.  I did see a few elderly men dressed in traditional clothing during our visit.

A traditional & modern clothing shop.

A woman's clothing shop.

A traditional children's clothing store.

Walking through the bazaar.

Gjakova was hit hard during the Kosovo War.  While most of the people have returned and the damage repaired, there is still evidence of the war if one looks close enough.

A building destroyed during the Kosovo War.

We saw several traditional "Kulla" tower houses as we explored Kosovo.  They were built during and after the Ottoman Empire era up until the early 1900's.  They served as fortifications to protect against attacks.

A kulla now used as a hotel.  Kulla's were built to protect the local citizens from attack.

We were hungry considering we left at 6:00 am and it was 9:30 am.  Time for breakfast!  Lirac took us to a great restaurant called Saranda Grill.

Time for breakfast!  A Qebaptore specializes in Qebapa (Qebpa/Qofte/Cevap/Cevapi), skinless sausages made from seasoned beef & lamb.

Fellow patrons of Saranda Grill

I enjoyed a refreshing traditional Kosovo beverage called Ayran.  Frothy, fresh, light, awesome!  Not at all like a milkshake.  The taste is entirely different and definitely worth trying.

Kosovo cuisine features very fresh produce!  We loved the salads.  Below is a photo of Pam's Sallatë Shope (Shopska Salad).

Salat Shope (Shopska Salad)

I just had to try the Qebapa!  Definitely enjoyed it.  Not too spicy, and not to bland.  Great with fresh baked bread!

Qebapa/Qofte/Cevap/Cevapi (Seasoned Beef & Lamb)

Pam, Lirak & Chris @ Saranda Grill

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One Euro Coin Face

The Road To Gjakova

Our new friends Lirac & Suela invited us over for a traditional Albanian meal of lamb and vegetables.  Even enjoyed some Raki!  The meal was wonderful.  And so was their hospitality!  We really appreciated a home cooked meal!

The next day, we met Lirac & Suela at 6:00 am and left for the Albanian Alps where we planned to spend a night in Valbona National Park.  We planned to stop for lunch in Gjakova, Lirac's home town.  Chris graciously offered to drive us in his Jeep rental.

Islam is the predominate religion in Kosovo where 96% of the population is Muslim, most of whom are Kosovo Albanians.  As a result, we saw many Mosques.

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Village, Minaret & Mosque along Highway R110.

More Snow-capped Mountains

Hillside Homes along R110

A man and his beast.

Valley homes near Gjakova

Horses along R110

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2 Euro Coin Face

A Drive in the Country: Lake Badovc

I think it makes a lot of sense to rent a car for a couple of days to explore Kosovo.  Most locations can be reached by car in a few hours.  However, I recommend that you purchase a road map because mapping apps for Kosovo are not detailed enough.  Several road maps can be purchased on-line.  We purchased ours from Amazon.

Here are some photos from our drive to Brus.  Click on my photos below to see them in high resolution on Flickr.  You can view the photos in high resolution by clicking here!

Prishtina

Snow-capped mountains surround Kosovo

Homes along the M25-2 highway near Brus

Driving on the M25-2, we saw a sign for Prishtina Bear Sanctuary

Lake Badovc (aka Gračanica Lake ) is a reservoir built to supply water to Prishtina

The reservoir was created in 1966 by building a dam on the Gračanka River

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Gračanica: A Serbian Enclave in Kosovo

Within a short drive south of Prishtina, Kosovo is the Serbian enclave of Gračanica.  The town is inhabited by approximately 11,000 people, many of whom are refugees driven out of Prishtina at the end of the Kosovo War.  Gračanica is also the administrative center for the Community of Serb Municipalities in Kosovo.

Below is the statue of Miloš Obilić, a Serbian knight in the service of Prince Lazar, during the invasion of the Ottoman Empire.  The statue is in the middle of a roundabout in Gračanica.  Notice the flag of Serbia to the left of the statue.

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 Miloš Obilić

However, Gračanica is also known for the Gračanica Monastery located in the middle of town.  The Serbian Orthodox monastery was built in 1321.  After World War II, the monastery has served as a convent for Serbian Orthodox nuns.  Today, it is home to 24 sisters.

Gračanica Monastery Gate

Gračanica Monastery

Gračanica Monastery

Gračanica Monastery Office

Gračanica Monastery Gift Shop

Gračanica Monastery Cupola

Do you know what this plaque says?  It is on the walls of the monastery.  If you do, let me know!

Mc Donner's

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Euro 5 Cent Coint

Four Wheeling in Brus, Kosovo!

We decided to go for a drive in the country through a village called Brus, Kosovo.  Brus is located between Gračanica and Gjilan.  We discovered the roads were too difficult to navigate without a GPS.  However, we had a great time anyway!  We saw some beautiful countryside, mountains, valleys and small villages.

After turning off the paved M25-2 onto a dirt road, we climbed out of the valley up onto a mountain ridge.  We were then greeted by this view!

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Mountain Meadow

We pulled over, got out of the car and started shooting!  Below the town of Brus can be seen in the valley.

Looking Toward Brus

We found ourselves surrounded by mountains and beautiful valleys!

Mountain View

We looked to our left and saw this Catholic Church on a hillside with homes and farm buildings cascading down the hillside.  Out of roughly two million people in Kosovo, there are approximately 65,000 Roman Catholics.  The area could be populated with Catholic Kosovar Albanians or Croats.  There is a cemetery nearby with Christian headstones.  The OSCE Municipal Profile for the Lipjan/Lipljan region states that there are two Catholic churches in the region, one of which is in Brus.

Brus Catholic Church

Looking down, we saw this orchard:

Mountain Orchard

Chris rented this cool Jeep for the week.  He was a great tour guide, driver and fellow explorer!

Chris and his cool Jeep

We asked for directions at one of the farms near the church.  The helpful and friendly people we talked with suggested we return the way we came.

Mountain Road

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Sampling Kosovar Cuisine in Prishtina

Since ethnic Albanians make up 94% of Kosovo's population, the cuisine of Kosovo is very similar to Albanian cuisine.  The cuisine features lots of fresh produce, beef, lamb and chicken.  Seasoning is typically flavorful, but not spicy.  The bread is fresh baked.  Yogurt and yogurt based sauces are common.

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Chris took us to one of his favorite neighborhood restaurants, Te Pini in Prishtina.  It features a relaxing cafe atmosphere with outdoor dining, typical of Prishtina.

Pleasant cafe atmosphere at Te Pini

Qofte Prizreni - (Beef & Lamb) with Yogurt

Sautéed Beef Liver

Yogurt/Cream Cheese Sauce served with the Beef Liver for dipping.

Bread is always fresh-baked.

Sendviç pule (chicken sandwich)

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Hotel Afa: An Oasis in Prishtina

We booked a Double French Room for €67.50 ($75.35)/night at Hotel Afa after viewing TripAdvisor reviews and talking to our son who had staid there.  Our stay at Hotel Afa was wonderful!  Their courtyard is a quiet and relaxing place to enjoy breakfast and a coffee or two.  The food was great with breakfast included in the room cost. The rooms were medium sized, well appointed and clean.  The service was outstanding.  We recommend a stay at Hotel Afa.  No complaints!

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Hotel Afa Courtyard

Fitness Room

Stairs to the terraces.

Very nice landscaping.

This waterfall sounds great!

Outdoor seating in the courtyard adjacent to a dining room.

Skylight in our 4th floor hallway.

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